In late October the sea water that laps at the Tel Aviv shore is crystalline and warm as a bath. Groups of small fish the colour of wet sand dance to avoid your feet; you only know they’re there by their shadows. Although the sea doesn’t look rough black flags have been raised. No swimming! A few metres in the water is above your ankles. The hot sun touches you in ways and places people don’t. The breeze whispers in your ear and ruffles your hair. You look out to the horizon then close your eyes, perfectly in the moment. You’ve filtered out all sound except for the rush of the water. You’re almost dizzy with pleasure. And that’s why I love paddling.